Mastering: line, layers and graduation!
This video from Shannel Mariano @shannelmariano is brilliant! Racking up over 580,000 views in the last 6 days. It’s a great visual on mastering these 3 core skills to be a better hairdresser. She explains:
“LINE (or one-length)
Starting from the bottom, I took horizontal sections cutting all the hair at natural fall. If I take a vertical section, you’ll see that the hair all falls to one point. That kept her hair’s density and made it appear thicker and blunt.
I trimmed her hair to a line or one-length haircut. Then I decided to soften it up by removing some weight. I did this by layering the hair above her occipital bone. I kept the hair in the bottom one-length to keep her perimeter solid. If I layered her hair all the way down, it would make her perimeter look skinny …which isn’t wrong. It just wasn’t the look we were going for. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
If I take a vertical section, you’ll see that all the hair below the occipital bone would fall to one point. (line) Above the occipital bone, the hair would be shorter on top and longer on the bottom (layers). ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
This time, we wanted “wash & wear” volume. Starting from the bottom, I took horizontal diagonal sections, elevating each section as close as I could to 45 degrees using a traveling guide. Once I reached the occipital bone, I used a stationary guide so the hair could get longer quicker and be heavier.
If I take a vertical section, you’ll see that the hair is shorter on the bottom and longer on top.
That’s all haircutting really is. It is “short hair pushes longer hair” vertically and horizontally. Vertically: do you want to keep weight, built it, or remove it? Then put the short hair and the longer hair where it needs to be vertically knowing that short hair pushes longer hair. Horizontally: do you want to widen the face, narrow the face, or not change it? Put the short hair and the long hair where it needs to be horizontally.
Really hope you found this visual and explanation helpful!”